For this Caravan Manchester brunch review, we arrived on a Sunday morning with one question: was it worth all the fuss? After a weekend in Manchester, one final breakfast seemed a particularly good way to finish.

I'd heard enough about Caravan's inventive menu and serious approach to coffee to be curious. Besides, I'm always interested in a brunch that ventures beyond the usual eggs on toast.

A good-looking place to linger

Caravan sits in the St John's district, inside a generous, light-filled space. Warm timber, orange pendant lights and plenty of greenery soften the industrial architecture. As we'd arrived shortly after opening, we had time to appreciate the room before the day got going.

Service started a little too enthusiastically. We felt slightly hurried while reading the menu, so I asked our waitress for a couple more minutes. She obliged, and the rest of the visit settled into a much nicer rhythm. Sometimes the kindest thing a waiter can offer is a little breathing room.

Caravan Manchester brunch review: two very different plates

First, the adventurous choice: Korean-style buttermilk fried chicken with kimchi pancake, gochujang ketchup and a fried egg (£17.50). It's certainly not a timid breakfast. The vivid sauce, scattered herbs and glossy egg made a handsome first impression.

However, the chicken tasted a little too deep-fried for my liking. Happily, the rich egg and gochujang sauce made up for it. Together, they brought the sweet, savoury heat that the chicken needed. I enjoyed the flavours, even if I'd have preferred a lighter touch with the fryer.

The reassuring classic

Across the table, we took the more traditional route: hot-smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on sourdough (£15.50).

Generous flakes of salmon, golden scrambled eggs and a scattering of chives made an inviting plate. More importantly, it went down very well. Both dishes offered proper, generous portions, too.

Sometimes a classic earns its place on the menu for a reason.

The coffee question

I'm a self-confessed coffee snob, so Caravan's own roastery was part of the appeal. Naturally, we ordered an espresso made with the signature roast, a cappuccino and a pink grapefruit juice.

The espresso was excellent. The cappuccino, however, left a little to be desired. If you're particular about coffee, those small differences matter, especially somewhere that takes its beans so seriously.

Good brunch, but is it Manchester's best?

Our bill came to £54.45 for two, including a 12.5% discretionary service charge. That's a considered Sunday breakfast rather than a bargain, although the generous portions, attractive setting and creative menu count in its favour.

Caravan gets plenty right. Nevertheless, a slightly heavy-handed fry on the chicken and an underwhelming cappuccino stopped this being the standout brunch I'd hoped for.