Ezra & Gil Manchester Review: Breakfast Worth Getting Up For?

HEY LOLLY / MANCHESTER / RESTAURANT REVIEWS

My Ezra & Gil Manchester review: an exceptionally photogenic breakfast, but does it live up to the queue?

PETER STREET, MANCHESTER  ·  THE HEY LOLLY VERDICT: 7/10

For this Ezra & Gil Manchester review, I headed to Peter Street to find out whether one of the city’s most talked-about brunch spots really lives up to its reputation. Manchester knows a thing or two about brunch: beautiful interiors, inventive menus and enough photogenic breakfast plates to keep Instagram occupied until lunchtime. Yet, as I discovered on a particularly wet Manchester morning, a fashionable address doesn't always guarantee a memorable breakfast.

We visited the Peter Street café, just along the road from The Edwardian Manchester, where we were spending the weekend. You can browse the menu and find the café’s details on the official Ezra & Gil Peter Street website.

Ezra & Gil had been on my radar for some time. Frequently mentioned among Manchester's best breakfast spots, it certainly comes with a reputation. But does the food deserve the attention, or has the hype started doing some of the heavy lifting?

Ezra & Gil Manchester Review: First Impressions

A queue greeted us on arrival. Ordinarily, I'd take that as an encouraging sign. Twenty minutes later, standing outside in the Manchester rain, my enthusiasm had begun to wane.

To their credit, staff provided umbrellas, a thoughtful gesture. Nevertheless, there's something faintly ridiculous about sheltering from the elements while waiting for the privilege of buying breakfast.

Still, we weren't in a hurry. It was a leisurely weekend morning, and we were curious to discover what all the fuss was about.

Inside Ezra & Gil Manchester, showing the café counter and warm-toned interior
The kind of room that makes a very good first impression.
Tables and seating inside Ezra & Gil on Peter Street in Manchester
A lovely room, with plenty of bustle.

Once inside, the appeal became obvious. Ezra & Gil has mastered the modern brunch aesthetic. Stylish, lively and effortlessly Instagrammable, it's the sort of place that makes you photograph your coffee before taking the first sip.

The atmosphere has a genuine buzz. However, beautiful interiors can only carry a restaurant so far. Eventually, the food has to do the talking.

Coffee and menu on a table at Ezra & Gil Manchester
Coffee first. Expectations shortly afterwards.

Breakfast at Ezra & Gil: Plenty of Promise, Less Punch

On paper, the menu sounded rather lovely. Inventive combinations, interesting ingredients and plenty of dishes promising something beyond the ordinary.

We ordered the chorizo and Bury black pudding breakfast hash from the October specials, smashed avocado on sourdough with sausage and bacon on the side, and three hash browns with E&G chive and black pepper mayo and Parmesan.

It's a line-up that ought to make breakfast rather exciting. Unfortunately, the flavours didn't quite deliver.

Breakfast dishes arranged across the table at Ezra & Gil Manchester
Three plates, plenty of promise.
Chorizo and Bury black pudding breakfast hash served in a blue bowl at Ezra & Gil
The October special: chorizo and Bury black pudding breakfast hash.

The October breakfast hash

Chorizo and Bury black pudding sound like a brilliant pairing: smoky, rich, savoury and full of character. Yet the breakfast hash didn't quite deliver the depth or contrast its ingredients promised. Pleasant enough, certainly, but not a dish I'd be thinking about later that afternoon.

The smashed avocado on sourdough

The avocado on sourdough, with sausage and bacon ordered alongside, looked the part too. Again, though, it lacked that little something to make it memorable. A sharper edge, more seasoning, a more confident balance of flavours. Something.

Smashed avocado on sourdough toast served at Ezra & Gil Manchester
Smashed avocado on sourdough, with bacon and sausage ordered on the side.

The hash browns — and the mayo worth mentioning

Then there were the three hash browns with Parmesan and E&G chive and black pepper mayo. The hash browns themselves had all the hallmarks of the frozen supermarket variety. I can't say for certain that they were, but that was certainly my impression.

The mayo, on the other hand, was the best-tasting thing across all three plates. The chive and black pepper gave it the lift and personality I had been looking for elsewhere. A rather delicious little condiment, doing more work than it should have needed to.

Overhead photograph of brunch plates at Ezra & Gil Manchester
A good-looking breakfast, certainly.
“The most memorable flavour of the morning came from the mayo.”
Close-up of the chorizo and black pudding breakfast hash at Ezra & Gil Manchester
A closer look at the breakfast hash.

Nothing was particularly bad. Everything was perfectly pleasant, in fact. Yet there was a noticeable gap between the menu's ambition and what actually arrived on the plate.

In a city where the brunch competition is fierce, those details make a difference.

Ezra & Gil Manchester: Is the Wait Worth It?

Having spent twenty minutes queuing outside, we waited approximately another thirty minutes for our food. That's almost an hour between arriving and eating.

Now, I'm all for a leisurely breakfast. There's something rather lovely about lingering over coffee when you've nowhere particular to be. However, there's a difference between choosing to take your time and simply waiting.

The atmosphere remained enjoyable, and the delay didn't ruin our morning. Nevertheless, it made for a lengthy commitment to a breakfast that ultimately failed to impress.

Smashed avocado on sourdough beside a breakfast hash at Ezra & Gil Manchester
The table had all the ingredients of a memorable brunch.

Is Ezra & Gil Manchester Worth the Money?

Interestingly, I don't think the pricing is the problem. For a popular city-centre brunch spot, the prices felt reasonable. I certainly didn't leave feeling overcharged.

What I questioned was whether the overall experience justified the anticipation. After all, there's a difference between offering fair value and being worth going out of your way for.

Ezra & Gil arguably achieves the former. I'm less convinced about the latter.

The Hey Lolly Verdict: Style Over Substance?

I wanted to love Ezra & Gil. The setting is attractive, the atmosphere lively and the menu has all the makings of a brilliant brunch destination. However, the food never quite lived up to its promise.

Perhaps expectation plays a part. When somewhere attracts so much attention, you naturally anticipate something special. Consequently, when the experience turns out to be merely nice, it's difficult not to feel a little underwhelmed.

Would I return? Possibly, if I happened to be passing and there wasn't a queue.

Would I stand outside in the rain for another twenty minutes? Probably not.

Red neon sign inside Ezra & Gil Manchester
Style was never the problem.
THE HEY LOLLY VERDICT
7/10

Perfectly pleasant, undeniably photogenic, but not quite the breakfast revelation I'd hoped for.

Sometimes the most memorable thing about brunch isn't what arrives on the plate. Sadly, I think that rather sums up this one.

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