No Heels Required, Just a Decent Pair of Boots…
The pink sandstone walls of Drumlanrig Castle rise majestically from the rolling landscapes of Dumfries and Galloway, commanding attention yet somehow remaining one of Scotland’s best-kept secrets. This magnificent 17th-century estate, often called the “Pink Palace” of Dumfriesshire and home to the Duke of Buccleuch, offers that rare combination of grandeur without pretension, history without stuffiness, and luxury without an eye-watering price tag. Now that’s my kind of trip!
The older I get, the more I find myself drawn to the places that sit just outside the spotlight – the ones that aren’t all over Instagram or chasing headlines, but somehow stay with you long after you’ve left.
Drumlanrig was exactly that. Staying in the Studio Apartment felt like finding something quietly special – comfortable, considered, and just indulgent enough. The kind of place you almost don’t want to tell too many people about… but here we are! I’m about to let you in on a very special secret indeed…
Arriving at Our Scottish Sanctuary
We took the long way in – not by design, but the kind of detour you don’t mind when the roads are quiet and the views keep earning your silence. Dumfries and Galloway unfolded gently, all shifting greens, mossy walls, and the occasional sheep holding its ground like it owned the lane.
And then, just as the sat nav tried to reroute us again, Drumlanrig appeared. Pale pink, quietly dramatic, and entirely unfazed by our arrival. There’s something about it – a kind of presence that doesn’t try too hard. Grand, yes. But not in a way that feels out of reach.
We were staying in the Studio Apartment, tucked into the castle estate. A space that felt immediately ours. Calm, considered, and full of the sort of details that make you want to unpack properly.
The Studio Apartment: Understated Elegance
There’s luxury that shouts for attention – all crystal chandeliers and gilded edges – and then there’s luxury that whispers, that reveals itself in thoughtful details and quiet comforts. The Studio Apartment at Drumlanrig falls firmly into the latter category. Understated elegance.
Upon opening the door, we were greeted by a space that balanced historical character with contemporary comfort masterfully. High ceilings created an immediate sense of spaciousness, while carefully chosen furnishings in muted neutral tones complemented the apartment’s heritage features.
Large windows flooded the space with natural light and framed views that changed hourly with Scotland’s famously capricious weather – each vista more captivating than the last.
The bedroom area offered a supremely comfortable bed dressed in crisp, high-quality linens that promised (and delivered) restorative sleep after days of exploration. The bathroom, modern and immaculate, featured a powerful shower that became a daily pleasure – especially after countryside walks that occasionally left us splattered with the evidence of authentic Scottish weather! And a rather apt name of “best seat in the house” above the loo! You can see why!
But perhaps my favourite feature was the kitchenette. While compact, it was thoughtfully equipped with everything needed to prepare simple meals or more ambitious culinary creations. As someone who believes that cooking with local ingredients is an essential part of truly experiencing a place, this was a detail I particularly appreciated.
Waiting for us in the apartment was the loveliest surprise – a complimentary hamper filled with treats from the estate and nearby Restoration Yard. Locally ground coffee, jewel-toned sloe gin, handmade preserves with the prettiest packaging, and a slab of caramel and honeycomb chocolate that didn’t last the night. Every item felt chosen, not just thrown in. It was such a gentle, generous welcome!
Mornings at Drumlanrig: A Sensory Awakening.
There’s something about waking up in a place with history that makes ordinary mornings extraordinary. Each day at Drumlanrig began with the gentle filtering of light through centuries-old windows and the distant sounds of the estate coming to life.
Our morning ritual quickly established itself: a slow awakening with locally roasted coffee – followed by breakfast prepared with ingredients sourced from the local farm shop. Fresh eggs with yolks the colour of marigolds, artisanal bread that demanded to be toasted and lavished with Scottish butter, and occasionally, when indulgence called, traditional Haggis and Lorne sausage that put all others to shame.
With breakfast enjoyed either at our window-side table or, on particularly fine mornings, in the courtyard, we would plan our day’s adventures. And at Drumlanrig, adventure options abound.
Traditional Lorne Sausage + Haggis
A Culinary Treasure Hunt: Our Kilnford Farm Shop Haul.
One of our first excursions took us to Kilnford Farm Shop, a nearby fine food emporium that proved to be a revelation for this food-obsessed traveler. Kilnford specialises in locally produced delicacies, with their own farm providing much of what they sell. The star attraction? Their Belted Galloway beef – a native Scottish breed with distinctive white “belts” around their middles that produce some of the most flavourful meat I’ve ever encountered.
We couldn’t resist purchasing their thick-cut Belted Galloway steaks, which we later pan-seared in the apartment kitchen with nothing more than salt, pepper, and a knob of Scottish butter. The result was a meal that rivaled any high-end steakhouse experience – deeply flavoured, perfectly tender, and all the more satisfying for having been cooked in our temporary home with a view of the estate.
Our Kilnford haul didn’t stop at beef. We also gathered an impressive array of Scottish produce (the strawberries were particularly memorable), famous Lorne Sausage made just a few miles away, locally produced preserves, and a selection of craft beers from small Scottish breweries. These treasures formed the basis of several impromptu picnics during our stay and provided edible souvenirs that extended our Scottish experience well beyond our return home.
What I loved most about Kilnford was how it echoed the same quiet charm we’d found at Drumlanrig -thoughtful, down-to-earth, and rooted in something real. No fuss, no pretence. Just proper food, made with care, and a clear respect for where it came from.
There’s something about that approach – simple, seasonal, and quietly confident – that hits home for me. It’s not about being flashy; it’s about flavour, place, and knowing that good ingredients speak for themselves.
Exploring on Two Wheels: Our E-Bike Adventure
Hiring e-bikes from the estate turned out to be one of the real highlights of our stay. We set off on a 40km loop across Drumlanrig’s vast grounds – 90,000 acres of woodland, riverbanks, open moor, and the kind of quiet that settles in your chest.
I love a bike ride, but I’m not exactly built for endurance – the electric assist was a game-changer. It meant we could take on the hills without burning out, and actually enjoy the views instead of just surviving them.
The team at the estate handed us a map with suggested routes, and we picked one that promised a bit of everything – castle gardens, winding forest tracks, open stretches by the River Nith. The terrain shifted constantly, but the bikes took it all in stride. We were out for nearly four hours, and I could’ve kept going.
By the time we rolled back in, windblown and grinning, the legs were tired but the spirits were high. We made a slow dinner that night – something simple, local, eaten in slippers with a glass of wine in hand. The good kind of ache, the good kind of tired. The kind that tells you a day was well spent.
What struck me most during our ride was the sheer scale and diversity of the estate. Around one corner, we’d find ourselves in ancient woodland where dappled light filtered through a canopy of leaves that had witnessed centuries of history; around another, we’d emerge onto open hillsides with panoramic views that stretched for miles in every direction.
We stopped frequently – sometimes to catch our breath, sometimes to capture photographs, but often simply to absorb the beauty around us. One particularly memorable pause came at a high point overlooking the castle and its surroundings, where we sat on a conveniently placed bench and shared a picnic of Kilnford treasures. The combination of physical exertion, fresh air, and spectacular views made even simple food taste extraordinary.
The e-bike adventure offered a perspective on Drumlanrig that would have been impossible to achieve on foot. It allowed us to feel the rhythm of the estate, to understand its scale and diversity, and to experience the satisfaction of covering significant ground under our own steam (with a little electrical assistance). It was, without question, one of the most enjoyable days of our entire trip – active without being exhausting, adventurous without being intimidating.
A Glimpse into History: Touring Drumlanrig Castle.
While staying on the estate grounds would have been enough to fill the days, we couldn’t miss the opportunity to tour the castle itself. The guided tour offered insights into both the architectural significance of this 17th-century masterpiece and the fascinating history of the Douglas and Buccleuch families who have called it home.
Photography wasn’t permitted inside, which initially disappointed my capture-loving heart but ultimately enhanced the experience by allowing full immersion in the moment. And what moments they were – from the grand entrance hall with its sweeping staircase to intimate family rooms filled with treasures accumulated over centuries. The photos below have been referenced from what’s readily available on the internet.
The absolute highlight came in the form of Rembrandt’s “An Old Woman Reading” – an intimate, luminous painting that stopped me in my tracks. There’s something profoundly moving about encountering great art in the setting for which it was intended, rather than in the clinical environment of a museum. Standing before this masterpiece, observing the delicate brushwork and the compassionate portrayal of aging, created a connection across centuries that felt almost spiritual.
Equally fascinating was learning about the historical connection between the Buccleuch family and Robert the Bruce, Scotland’s legendary king. In a moment that connected dots across my own very recent travels, I discovered that it was a Douglas family member from Drumlanrig who carried Bruce’s heart on crusade to the Holy Land – a story I’d first encountered during a recent trip to Teba in Spain. These unexpected connections between seemingly disparate travel experiences are what make exploration so rewarding, creating a personal tapestry of understanding that enriches each new destination.
The castle gardens proved equally captivating. Divided into different areas, each with its own character, they range from the formal geometry of the Parterre Garden to the wild beauty of the Woodland Garden. As someone who finds both peace and inspiration among plants, I spent hours wandering these spaces, camera in hand, attempting to capture their beauty while knowing that some experiences simply defy digital preservation.
Culinary Discoveries: Tasting Scotland
While our apartment’s kitchenette allowed for self-catering flexibility, exploring the local food scene was high on our priority list. The castle’s tearoom provided lunches that showcased local produce with simple preparations that let quality ingredients shine.
For evening meals, we alternated between cooking in our apartment and venturing to nearby establishments. The Buccleuch & Queensberry Arms Hotel in Thornhill offered dining that balanced Scottish tradition with contemporary flair. I’ll be honest – it is remote, and there isn’t much to offer in way of restaurants and pubs so be prepared to either travel or cook. I took to the latter since the ingredients on offer made cooking a real joy.
Beyond the Estate: Dumfries and Galloway’s Treasures
While Drumlanrig itself could easily occupy your entire stay, the surrounding region of Dumfries and Galloway offers attractions that make venturing beyond the estate gates well worthwhile.
The town of Dumfries, with its connections to Robert Burns (Scotland’s national poet spent his final years here), offers literary and historical interest. Burns’ former home is now a museum that provides insight into the man behind the poetry, while the Globe Inn, his favorite drinking establishment, continues to serve patrons in an atmosphere that has changed little since Burns’ day.
For nature lovers, the Galloway Forest Park presents over 300 square miles of forested landscape to explore. Designated as the UK’s first Dark Sky Park, it offers stargazing opportunities that city dwellers can only dream of. On one particularly clear night, we drove into the heart of the park, parked in a designated area, and simply looked up. The canopy of stars that greeted us – undiminished by light pollution and seemingly close enough to touch – was a humbling and awe-inspiring experience that no photograph could adequately capture.
The coastline of Dumfries and Galloway, often overlooked in favour of Scotland’s more famous shores, offers quiet beaches and dramatic cliffs that reward those who seek them out. Rockcliffe and Kippford, two villages separated by a scenic coastal path, made for a perfect day trip. The walk between them, with its views across the Solway Firth to the Lake District, followed by fresh seafood at The Anchor in Kippford, epitomised the simple pleasures that often form our most enduring travel memories.
Departing with More Than Memories
As we reluctantly packed to leave, I realised that Drumlanrig had given us something beyond the usual holiday souvenirs and photographs. It had offered a template for the kind of travel experiences I want to prioritise – those that leave you feeling enriched rather than depleted, connected rather than merely entertained.
We left with bags containing tangible reminders – a bottle of small-batch gin from a nearby distillery, handmade ceramics from a potter whose studio we discovered on a countryside drive, books about the region’s history and natural environment that will deepen our understanding long after our return. But more importantly, we left with a renewed appreciation for travel that allows for depth rather than just breadth, for experiences that might not make the standard “must-see” lists but that offer authentic connection to places and their people.
Drumlanrig Castle and its Studio Apartment may be a hidden gem in Scotland’s crown of attractions, but perhaps that’s part of its charm. In a world where overtourism threatens many beloved destinations, there’s something to be said for places that still offer the luxury of discovery, that still have the capacity to surprise and delight those fortunate enough to find them.
If you’re seeking a Scottish experience that balances grandeur with intimacy, history with comfort, and luxury with accessibility, I cannot recommend Drumlanrig Castle highly enough. Just perhaps don’t tell too many people – some treasures are best kept between friends who understand their value.
With warmth and a dram of Scottish spirit,
